Hall of Fame
"Hall of Fame" is considered probably the most challenging mix route in the world. Ron Koller discovered and established it eight years ago. Mountain guide and professional alpinist Yannick
Glatthard has now succeeded in making the first free ascent.
First free walk-through of the "Hall of Fame" by Yannick Glatthard
Experience report by Yannick Glatthard
I've been watching Hall of Fame for years. Over and over again. Can this route ever be climbed freely? And how? Is this a project for me? Could I pull it off? Under which external conditions is an ascent even conceivable? What do I have to bring with me? It's clear to me: "Hall of Fame" demands and offers everything. Psychologically, physically, technically.
"Hall of Fame has been on my project calendar for years. Never has everything worked out. Very rarely do the conditions in winter allow to climb this challenging route. Either there is no icicle at the top or there is not enough ice at the bottom. Even in the winter of 2023, the conditions are never really good. Too warm the temperatures, no ice. Hardly imaginable that an ascent in the could work. But then: after a few very cold nights, the icicle finally protrudes from the rock on January 29. I know: now there is a possibility for my project!
I feel nervousness. Will the window of cold temperatures stay open long enough? In the first days of February, I organize everything for the start of the project. Ron Koller, the Ron Koller, the route's creator, and Diego Schläppi, mountaineer, photographer and filmmaker. Ron has been a companion, coach, mentor and a very good friend for years. "Hall of Fame. climbing together with him makes me happy.
Highly motivated and full of energy we enter the route. In the 2nd attempt the roof. The following pitch M10 is strict, I do not find the hooks, have to climb back several times, do not see the I don't see the solution right away. Then my ice tool falls just before the belay. Abort of the exercise. Too much energy used, trouble. Nevertheless: the feeling for the route is there, a more efficient solution for the for the 3rd pitch. I now know exactly what it's all about.
Back on the valley floor, weather check for the next few days. Temperature fluctuations are a concern: if the icicle is too big and too heavy, it will fall down. If it is too small, you can hardly hardly possible to climb it. The dilemma: at the bottom I need thicker ice, at the top the cone must not get bigger.
Second attempt, just under a week later, well prepared, optimally recovered. I am ready for "Hall of Fame". The first pitch works quickly, I climb the 30 meter roof M13 in about 20 minutes. minutes, M10 I climb to the belaystation without any problems. Today is the day of days. Soon the difficult passages are behind me. Before me still M8, M6 pitches, actually well doable.
Out on the icicle after the third belay, W5, technically usually not too difficult. Scarce 2 - 10 cm ice thickness make the protection enormously difficult. Highest concentration is mentally exhausting. At the ice curtain: I can't reach the ice with my picks, in the mixed variation right next to it I fail on the brittle rock. What to do? The shoulders of Ron, a shoulder stand with crampons. From this circus position I finally reach the ice curtain. The exercise costs nerves and strength. 100 m further through steep snow to the last Upswing, then an M8 length with brittle rock and poor blow hooks. I decide for the 6a+ climb 3 m next to it, without crampons and ice axe, all self-secured.
Now the centerpiece of "Hall of Fame". The huge icicle rises from a rock hole 30 meters vertically down, 15 meters freely hanging. Gigantic. I know: standing here is the reward for my great feat of strength. Is this the most demanding mix route in the world? So many different routes, so many technical difficulties and this unique icicle - where else in the world can you find something like this? you find anything comparable?
I get well to the spigot, despite a lot of water, encountering cruddy ice, there is much to be beaten off. The spigot is technically difficult, but well secured. Experience: tremendous. Scenery: Ice, water, indescribable. Condition: tired. Feeling: cold, joy, pure happiness, gratitude. And the certainty: today we bring the "Hall of Fame" home.
The rest is quickly told: two traverses M7, not pleasant, sloping steps. It must go quickly, the darkness is breathing down our necks. 18.00 h: exit from the route.
Everything worked (almost) smoothly. Success is only possible as a team. A big "Thank you!" to Ron Koller and Diego Schläppi!
Yannick Glatthard
February 27, 2023
