Yosemite 2018
Big wall climbing in sunny California
Yosemite 2018
Big wall climbing in sunny California
"California knows how to party", sings Tupac in "California Love". I wanted to find out together with Nik Kohler, so in 2018 we set off for a whole 6 weeks to the famous Yosemite National Park for a whole 6 weeks.
Instead of jumping straight into the famous El Cap, we first wanted to devote ourselves to less popular but equally beautiful and challenging projects. We had picked out a few big wall tours to familiarize ourselves with the type and style of climbing. Among them were great classics such as "Separate Reality", which is known for its crux, a 6m long hand crack in a roof. long hand crack in a roof. We also climbed the "Rostrum" route, which climbs up a beautiful gray pillar with impressive crack systems. The legendary "Astroman" from 1959 on the Washington Column also came under our fingers. After climbing the route, we knew why it had long been considered a test piece for granite climbers. The climbing is intense - mentally and physically. We continued on to El Cap, where we tackled the famous Nose. We conservatively planned two days, but could have done it in one. done it in one. And so we bivouacked 7 pitches before the exit to enjoy the big wall atmosphere.
Simon and I took it in turns to lead climb and we climbed the easier lengths simultaneously. We were doing very well mentally and we were also able to climb the key pitch in onsight mode. climbing mode. And because it was going so well, I loosened up a bit and as we were continuing in 7a, I didn't study the topo so closely. I had underestimated the labyrinth of routes in this big wall somewhat underestimated. Despite making good progress, you should always remain careful. And so I climbed 4m up the 16th pitch. I was able to complete the onsight ascent with courage, determination and a small weak point in the rock.
After 9 hours we reached the summit, where we met Andrea Milani after a short abseil. He had brought our ski equipment, tea and chocolate. Simon and I were happy and impressed impressed by Andrea's warmth and support. We drove together to Malga Ciapela and treated ourselves to a pizza.
Yes, and after this wonderful and successful experience, Simon and I decided that we had had enough and it was time to go home. It was March 4th and we had taken 3 more weeks off. off work. But if you just keep going, tours lose a bit of their value. Suddenly they're just a number and you're restlessly running from one project to the next. It's important to be grateful that everything went well and to gather new strength and ideas for new ventures.
After all these impressive and beautiful big wall tours, we wanted to take on a project that we would climb exclusively free. The choice fell on the Misty Wall on the west side of the Sentinel. of the Sentinel. The first part was opened in 1964 by Royal Robbins and Dick McCracken. Some sections could not be climbed freely and it was said that this made it one of the of the redpoint projects of the 80s and 90s. However, after numerous attempts, the route was forgotten because some sections remained insurmountable. It was not until 2016 that Jon Cardwell and Marcus Garcia attempted to free climb it and extended the tour to 15 pitches. In 2017, Jon Cardwell and Sasha DiGiulian finally managed the first redpoint ascent. The crux of the of the entire tour is a 5m horizontal roof, which is rated 5.13 (French scale 7c+ / 8a). The route is very alpine and, in addition to the key rope length, requires a lot of stamina and good technique in the granite.
Here, too, we conservatively calculated 2 days for a redpoint ascent. We started the route after a very cold night with no particular expectations but a lot of anticipation. As is usual in As is usual in this terrain, you have to belay everything yourself with the exception of the belays. We quickly felt comfortable with the climbing and I quickly realized how I could use my I could draw on my full repertoire of moves. We mastered the route onsight and were also much faster than expected. To experience the big wall feeling after all, we placed our portaledge our portaledge just below the exit. It would have been another 2 hours of climbing to the exit, but we didn't want to miss out on sleeping in the vertical.
Inspired by our sense of achievement, we climbed a classic route on Half Dome, the Regular Northwest Face. The route is a classic and, when climbed with technical aids climbed with technical aids, in grade VI. Climbed free, it is rated 5.12 (French scale 7b). With 23 pitches, it stretches over 670 meters of climbing. Here, too, everything has to be be belayed. The first ascent was made in 1957 by a team consisting of Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick and Jerry Gallwas in 5 days. We did without a 100% free ascent, but were at the exit after but reached the exit after 7 hours.
Back at the campsite, I happily reflected on the experiences of the last few weeks. It was also a significant date for me. Exactly two years ago, I had started my training for the ice climbing competition season. Suddenly I realized that I wanted to take part in the Iceclimbing World Cup in Saas Fee more and more. That night I dreamt that night of nimbly climbing up the artificial wall in Saas Fee with my ice tools. My next project was set.